Wedge Mountain

Elevation Gain: 2,512m
Distance: 24.39km
Total Time: 12 hours 38 minutes
Date: April 19th, 2024

Wedge Mountain is the tallest in Garibaldi Park and undoubtedly one of the most popular mountaineering objectives in the Sea2Sky area. It boasts a number of routes to the top, but it seems in spring to late summer the northeast arete commands the most attention. Wedge was not on my radar at all when myself and Steven were planning an ascent of nearby Lesser Wedge Mountain.

However, on the day of we ran into Alex and Trevor returning from their ascent of the route and reported easy conditions. It turns out the summit was a mere 300m or so from our route to Lesser Wedge anyhow. So the decision was made on the spot to add it on after returning from our main objective.

Thanks to the highway of tracks it proved to be really no issue at all. Steven, Garrick, Brayden and myself climbed a short ways around a cornice and then up one section of 40 degree snow before reaching the broad summit shoulder. From there we had a short plod to the summit.

A look up at the route
Heading up
Steven in front of the route. Second time for him!
Brayden and Garrick part way up
At the steep point
Looking up at the highway
Myself going up
Looking over towards Lesser Wedge Mountain
Myself near the summit
Steven coming up to the top
The Black Tusk and Mount Tantalus behind
Mount Fee is the black fin of rock lower left and Ashlu Mountain is the tallest peak on the horizon
Mount Tinniswood way off in the distance

Returning to the ridge was just as easy with the big bucket steps already in place. We grabbed our stashed gear on the ridge and then took a break down on the glacier before roping up. Our return was largely uneventful, but we did make a stop through an amazing ice cave before continuing on. The forest was just as icy on the descent as the ascent, but we came prepared with crampons this time. Below 1100m the ice dissipated and we had a fast cruise back to the car.

Heading down
One last look at Lesser Wedge Mountain
Heading back down the glacier. Parkhurst in front
Scoping out the small icefall
At the ice cave
Looking inside. Check out the striations and layering!
Off the glacier and heading home

I have to say if you’re already putting in the work to get up to Wedge Mountain you should really make a stop at Lesser Wedge first. It’s a much more interesting climb and overall more aesthetic in my opinion. The arete on wedge is very photogenic, but in person I found it not all that exciting. No doubt the scenery is stellar though, so if nothing else at least make the trip for that.

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