Deeks Peak

GPS recording available here:

Elevation Gain: 1862m
Distance: 19.25km
Total Time: 7 hours 19 minutes
Date: May 15th, 2021

Deeks Peak is a 1672m peak located North of Deeks Lake and involves some minor scrambling to reach the summit. Mike and I were heading there after a successful summit of Mount Windsor and just reached the Deeks/Windsor col. From there we made a line heading North West up the slope to the Deeks Peak ridge line. There were quite a few rolls along the ridge line that we spotted from Mount Windsor and so to avoid all the undulating terrain we took a more diagonal line up the slope where the pitch was still moderate.

Mike starting up the slope to Deeks Peak ridge line
Looking at the ridge to the summit
Coming up one of the many rolls along the ridge
There’s a big cliff blocking the summit just ahead

After gaining 90m or so we reached the ridge line and were able to continue along this until we reached a large cliff blocking a direct ascent to the summit. Thankfully, we found a narrow snow ramp at climber’s left and started climbing up that. The ramp broadened out after 60ft or so and rejoined onto a normal slope that diverted around the cliff band. Once on this slope, we climbed up again to regain the ridge where we got a good view of the summit. Between us and the summit were just a few small rolls and then a short scramble section to reach the top. We climbed the rolls in short order and then started up the scramble bit. It only lasted 20 feet or so with solid rock and hand placements (class 2) and then we reached the top.

Taking the small snow ramp to divert around the cliff
Regaining the ridge now
The very small scramble section to the summit
Mike cruising up
We found a summit register which had some whisky in it as well. Drinking on a hot summit day is not my thing personally, but I didn’t pass up signingthe summit register.

On the summit, it was similar views to Mount Windsor, but with more of the Howe Sound visible. We only hung out for 10 minutes or so this time and then started the way back. We followed our ascent tracks back down the snow ramp until we were past the cliff. Then, instead of taking the normal trail down, we took a direct descent line down the slope plunging down the snowy forest floor. We rejoined the trail shortly after at 1390m and then followed our tracks back down to the lake.

At the lake we decided to brave the cold waters and go for a swim. The water was nothing short of freezing as the still prominent ice layer can attest to, but it was very refreshing and worthwhile. We got dressed again and from there it was auto-pilot mode again to descend the long forested trail back to the car.

Looking at the false summit of Deeks Peak
Mount Hanover and Mount Brunswick
Mike on the summit
Mount Windsor looks cool from here. Reminds me of Alpen Mountain in some ways
Our direct descent line. Probably can’t do this in the summer
Back at the lake. We went for a quick swim here.
Back on the FSR. Many km to go.

If you were only to go for one peak on of the two, I would take Mount Windsor peak every time. It has the more aesthetic route, higher summit elevation and more unique views given that it’s tucked in further than Deeks Peak. I would only bother doing Deeks Peak if you’re in the peak bagging game and want to grab an easy second summit in the same day. That being said, it’s still a nice peak, but it would not be worth it for the 1600m+ day to reach that and not Mount Windsor. I highly recommend grabbing both in one day since they’re so close to one another.

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *