Elevation Gain: 1862m
Total Time: 7 hours 19 minutes
Date: May 15th, 2021
Deeks Peak is a 1672m peak located North of Deeks Lake and involves some minor scrambling to reach the summit. Mike and I were heading there after a successful summit of Mount Windsor and just reached the Deeks/Windsor col. From there we made a line heading North West up the slope to the Deeks Peak ridge line. There were quite a few rolls along the ridge line that we spotted from Mount Windsor and so to avoid all the undulating terrain we took a more diagonal line up the slope where the pitch was still moderate.
After gaining 90m or so we reached the ridge line and were able to continue along this until we reached a large cliff blocking a direct ascent to the summit. Thankfully, we found a narrow snow ramp at climber’s left and started climbing up that. The ramp broadened out after 60ft or so and rejoined onto a normal slope that diverted around the cliff band. Once on this slope, we climbed up again to regain the ridge where we got a good view of the summit. Between us and the summit were just a few small rolls and then a short scramble section to reach the top. We climbed the rolls in short order and then started up the scramble bit. It only lasted 20 feet or so with solid rock and hand placements (class 2) and then we reached the top.
On the summit, it was similar views to Mount Windsor, but with more of the Howe Sound visible. We only hung out for 10 minutes or so this time and then started the way back. We followed our ascent tracks back down the snow ramp until we were past the cliff. Then, instead of taking the normal trail down, we took a direct descent line down the slope plunging down the snowy forest floor. We rejoined the trail shortly after at 1390m and then followed our tracks back down to the lake.
At the lake we decided to brave the cold waters and go for a swim. The water was nothing short of freezing as the still prominent ice layer can attest to, but it was very refreshing and worthwhile. We got dressed again and from there it was auto-pilot mode again to descend the long forested trail back to the car.
If you were only to go for one peak on of the two, I would take Mount Windsor peak every time. It has the more aesthetic route, higher summit elevation and more unique views given that it’s tucked in further than Deeks Peak. I would only bother doing Deeks Peak if you’re in the peak bagging game and want to grab an easy second summit in the same day. That being said, it’s still a nice peak, but it would not be worth it for the 1600m+ day to reach that and not Mount Windsor. I highly recommend grabbing both in one day since they’re so close to one another.