Elevation Gain: 5386m
Distance: 74km
Total Time: 3.5 days
Date: April 24th – 27th, 2026
stats are for all 3.5 days of our traverse
After our ascents up Mu Peak, Delta Peak and Mount Dalgleish, it was time to ascend the final peak of the day: Lillooet Mountain. The north side is comprised of steep icefalls and an improbable set of ascent of options. However, we’d be approaching from the south where a steep, but not all too challenging, snow slope ran its course all the way to the summit. In the summer, this aspect is bisected by several large bergshrunds, but this time of year things were looking very well filled in.
From the Dalgleish-Lillooet col, we traversed a long ways around a minor peak to reach the base of the south face. Along the way we spotted an old snow camp and the tracks suggested this party had reached the summit of Lillooet only a few days ago.
With such firm conditions we ditched skis and snowshoes alike and marched up on foot. The first section was steep, but not necessary to face in and we ascended without too much difficulty to the top (save for my bad cardio). We had amazing views of Tisiphone and Bishop Lake far below and we were even able to spot a reasonable line down to the Four Way Stop. Part way down the glacier we could see a set of tracks heading north on the Compton Neve too. It seems this area is popular this time of year! Quite amazing considering how far from anything we were.
The descent back to our gear was uneventful and Seb, Steven and Alex got a head start on snowshoes. I transitioned to ski down hill and just as I heaved my pack on, my helmet made a break for it. A gust of wind assisted in the escape and I quickly took off in an effort to recapture it. Both helmet and skier picked up speed and careened downwards on the glacier. Every bit of speed I gained the helmet gained a step more. Now moving at a decent clip with 42lb pack on and uncertainty about the length strength required to stop, I thought better than to follow my helmet into the crevasse laden snow below. I came to a stop and resigned to accepting a rather expensive loss.
Perhaps the only redeeming aspect of this descent was the nice corn snow below. I kept an eye out in case my helmet had miraculously survived and sure enough 150m below me a faint dot stood out on the snow! I skied over and found an intact helmet. Relieved, I fastened it to the bag and then skied past my group to locate a suitable camp site near Tisiphone.
About as close to the base as I deemed safe, I plopped my gear down and probed around to find a satisfactory camp site. Seb, Alex and Steven caught up shortly after and we went to work setting up tents. We pre-packed our bags for the morning and then fell asleep as soon as the sunset. The next day we’d be going for Tisiphone.