Elevation Gain: 695m
Distance: 6.62km
Total Time: 4 hours 57 minutes
Date: July 20th, 2025
Alex and I woke up more exhausted than expected on our second day in the Tantalus range. We had our eyes set on Dione and specifically the SW Buttress. However, we also had a helicopter pick up at 5pm and that would mean we’d need to climb quickly and efficiently. Alex was ready much earlier than I, but I eventually scrounged up all of my gear and we headed north from our camp past the Haberl Hut. I lead us along a familiar line through the glacier towards the base of Dione. Andrea and I had taken this same approach for Tantalus 2 years prior and not much had changed.
As we approached the base to Dione our steps were sluggish and the prospect of a large multi-pitch was beginning to drift away. We reached the base and had a quick check in. Neither of us were firing on all cylinders and we weren’t entirely excited about having to rush up what should be an enjoyable and fun climb. With that, the decision was made and we switched plans to Dione by the easy east face.
I took us climber’s right and up the approach gully to the ridge line above. From there we scrambled through various parts of the ridge and then made a short walk on snow to the base of Dione. A lone finger of snow bridged the gap between rock and glacier, but it was solid enough to get us across. We donned our climbing shoes and ascended up a fun low 5th ramp up to a small rib. From there the grade reduced to 4th and 3rd class scrambling and he had an enjoyable ascent up to the summit.
In contrast to yesterday’s cloud-ridden affair, today we were met with a low cloud inversion. A spectacular one at that. Judge Howay and Robie Reid looked like isolated islands with two separate pinnacles each. It was a veritable sea of summits as far as the eye could see. Far down below we could see Ashley and Andrea coming up the glacier as well. We decided to wait for awhile to catch them on or near the summit.
After an hour or so, we decided to descend and simply scrambled back down the rib and made a few easy moves to the base of the wall. Boots came back on and that’s when Andrea and Ashley reached us. We hung out for a bit to say hi and then parted ways. Alex and I descended back to the gully without issue and then made a careful descent on the loose rock back to the snow.
It was a short return to camp from there where we rested until the helicopter came.